Installing Radiators for Central Heating


It’s possible that selecting and purchasing a new radiator isn’t all that challenging, so long as you consider some critical considerations.

The warranty on the radiators must be at least two years long.
To withstand 116 PSI (8 bar) at 95°C, they must be pressure tested to 152.3 PSI (10.5 bar).
The radiator’s output must meet the requirements of the BSEN442 European standard.
Here are some things to think about and easy to put into practice when replacing an outdated radiator without calling in a professional. Adding radiators to a preexisting central heating system is a simple DIY project that can be finished in a few hours.

The purpose of this piece is to serve as a guide for those who wish to install a new radiator without calling in a plumber. Whether replacing an old radiator or installing a new one, I’ll walk you through removing the old one, fitting the new one to the wall, cutting the pipe, connecting the new one, and dealing with corrosion.

1. Disposing of the existing radiator

This section is unnecessary if you are not installing a new radiator. However, there is guidance to consider if you are changing a radiator:

The heating system should be turned off. However, if you use a typical heating system, you must either prevent cold water from entering the tank or secure the ball valve to prevent refilling. In the case of a regular vented system, water must be drained from the system before the radiator can be removed.
Empty the radiator’s water tank: To (1) unlock the square, an appropriate spanner should be used. (2) make sure a hose is attached to the draincock Type A for a watertight system. A jubilee clip and a length of hosepipe would get you halfway to the other end of a traditional vented system. Step three is to drain the radiator completely to prevent more water damage to your home.
Turn the radiator’s bleed valve counterclockwise to release any water trapped inside.
Once the water has been drained out of the radiator, you can begin to undo one of the valves at the base of the radiator. You may still see water escaping, so you may need to drain more water from the system downstairs. It’s possible that draining the system’s water supply will be required.
To take it out of the brackets, you’ll need to unbolt the fittings and hoist it up.
Radiator installation step 2
You should probably mount the new radiator to the wall after deciding where to put it. There are only five straightforward actions involved in achieving this goal:

Calculating the space between the radiator’s two mounting holes.
Using a bubble level (spirit level), draw a vertical line on the wall.
Adding another line to adjust the spacing.
Hooking up the wall mounts.
The radiator is being mounted into the brackets.
Third, a plumber should be sent in to cut the pipe.
Copper pipes require a pipe slice, whereas plastic pipes call for plastic pipe slicers.

Putting a basin under the pipe would be best because some water will probably be left over.
One of the pipes must be lengthened to install the “T” fitting.
Push-fit and compression fittings should be on hand.
Have a pipe bender and a pipe bending spring ready if you need to work with copper pipes.
Connect the new radiator’s flow and return pipes (the flow pipe’s valve should be open) via the “T” fitting.
Step 4: Having the New Radiator Hooked Up
The following must be done before the new radiator can be connected:

Make sure the pipe inserts are utilized when connecting the radiator.
Compression valves require copper olives because alternative valves may damage plastic pipes when tightened too much.
Turn off the water supply valve.
Take out the hose.
If you open the bleeding valve on the radiator, please close it.
When refilling, use the cold supply filling loop and, if necessary, the loft water supply tank if venting is required.
Leaks can occur in newly installed fittings; fix any by tightening the screws or ensuring the pipes are fully inserted.
Bleeding the radiator is the final step. If you need detailed instructions on bleeding your radiator, check out our earlier piece.
The best way to handle Corrosion
When putting in a new radiator, corrosion is the primary concern of most people. You should give some thought to this because it is, fundamentally unavoidable. You can put off replacing the radiator for as long as possible.

What exactly are the causes of corrosion?

The variety of metals used in the device
The volume of air that is sucked into the machine.
Water quality at the point of entry
The professionalism of the staff who installed the radiators.
Is there anything you can do to keep your radiator from corroding prematurely?

Here are a few things to keep in mind while you set up the new radiator:

After installing the radiator, it must be flushed and filled with water correctly.
Some corrosion inhibitors will be used, as directed by the manufacturer.
To sum up, keep in mind:

Leave adequate space for the heat to circulate and the valves to be installed wherever you decide to put them.
Drain the cooling system before removing the radiator.
Ensure the radiator is firmly fastened to the wall.
If you have to, cut the pipe.
Join the new radiator in place.
Anti-corrosion agents should be used.
Best of luck!

Sam Brown, TradePlumbing’s manager of marketing, penned this piece. Bathroom suites, tubs, showers, towel rails, furniture, sinks, heating systems, radiators, and even taps and water treatment products are just the beginning of what can be found on, the trading name of Clayton Horsnell LTD, a privately held company with headquarters in Colchester, UK.

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